
So work began this week on the Pocketman creature for Medicine Show Cinema. What was discussed was a 8 foot tall creature on stilts resembling a Plague Doctor of the 17th century. This being a horror film, of course there were changes. For one, the overall look would be a mix of Steampunk/Post Apocalyptic. The mask would resemble leather strapping and have a copper hue to it, while having goggles built into the mask. The hat abandoned and replaced with a mane of dread-locked hair. Second, the weapons; 2 foot long blades strapped to the creatures arms. Lastly, the coat; 7 feet in total, covered in pockets. The sketch at left was my first incarnation of the creature design, and the director loved it. It was simple, but conveyed the look he wanted. Now to build it all in a few weeks. I don't often do "build" posts, but I thought it might be fun for this one. So here goes.
First step was the mask. I'm going old school with this one. Plaster Bandages... Yup, you heard me right. I wanted an old feel to this mask as if it has been around for centuries. So I'm taking an old approach for character sake. The mask is still lightweight and very breathable. but it has a heavy feel to it. I always felt it silly for a character like Jason Voorhees to wear that lightweight hockey mask. I know it is his character, but it seemed so out of place against his large frame. Besides, the original Plague Doctor mask had an impressive feel to it frightening in it's own right by the weight and size of it. That needs to be heightened for this creature in size and weight as the mask is a part of him. I plan on attaching straps and metal hoses that connect into the back of the head, disappearing into the hair.Building began with basic aluminum foil sculpted to shape onto a Styrofoam head base. Metal mesh form covered that and then the plaster bandages applied. About 3 layers of bandages in total were used with drying time in between. Welding goggles were built right into the sculpture of the mask for extra support, then some final bandages were used to build up the brow and the cheekbones. Once this had set, I removed the mask from the form and cut holes for breathing just below the beak plus I widened the eye holes behind the goggles. This was all re supported with some wire and bandages, then the whole head was baked in an oven on low for 2 hours to remove all the moisture.
Once cooled, the mask was sanded a bit but left fairly rough for texture, then coated in a hardener. This filled in any gaps left behind by the bandages. While drying, the goggle lenses were hand carved over the original covers with Apoxie Sculpt to give a cracked aged feel to them. After drying the mask was primed and painted with a hammered treatment, then a faux rust coat, then flat black, followed by copper Rub n Buff. Placement of the rivets were marked and drilled and the copper rivets were inserted into the eye and forehead area. Today, the remaining rivets will be applied as well as the straps, hoses and mouth cage. then a final application of dirt and grime will be added to the mask. Meanwhile, Ahren is working on cutting the blades out of a rigid acrylic and we will move on to assembling the arm guards and blade attachments. So I will post more later.Thanks for checking in!
~Doctor Grymm
